Take the N7 200km north-west from Cape Town and it's an easy drive to the citrus and rooibos tea farms of Citrusdal. Do your best, though, to get off the main road and take the back route through the Cederberg, 71,000 hectares of dramatic sandstone mountain terrain (make sure you have a full tank of petrol). Walking boots and a bird book are essential in this very special wilderness area that stretches around 50km north to south by 20km east to west. The weathered sandstone makes for dramatic water-sculpted scenery (check out the Wolfberg Arch and the Maltese Cross) and the whole area is a combination of rocky gorges, rivers, wonderful spring flowers and farms hidden in their own secluded valleys. A walker's paradise. The night skies are some of the world's clearest, thus the existence of the Sutherland Observatory ("Gateway to the Universe"!) which is technically in the Northern Cape, but still lies within the Roggeveld Conservancy. The mountains in winter often have snow on the highest peaks. I highly recommend you make this part of a circuit from Cape Town: West Coast out, Cederberg in. Add an extra loop by driving up to Springbok, across to Upington and back through the desert to Nieuwoudtville to rejoin the N7.