The term ‘township chic’ was invented for Dolly’s B&B. I loved the bathroom tiled with blue-spotted mosaics and the rooms with their red quilts, mini-Zulu shields, strawberry table-cloths and zebra print curtains, hand-made by Dolly. Not only is she a wizard on the sewing-machine, but she is also heavily involved with the local tourism association, setting a high standard with her own guesthouse. She and Kate from nearby Vhavenda were off to a hospitality seminar at one of the Southern Sun hotels on the day I arrived. Not that these ladies need any tips! With opera playing in the background and freshly-cut arum lilies on the front table, the house exudes calm. Outside guests can sit under the lapa, or admire Dolly’s garden, where geraniums sprout from potjie cooking pots and pink bougainvillaea crawls up the walls. You are right in the heart of where history was made in Soweto, particularly when Dolly can count two Nobel Peace Prize winners (Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela) among her neighbours. She has some astonishing stories herself of 'the struggle' and is a short walk away from the fascinating Hector Pieterson Memorial and museum. Or, if you're interested in the latest chapter in this extraordinary area's history, the impressive soccer city stadium, which hosted the 2010 World Cup final, is a fifteen-minute ride on the new bright-red Rea Vaya bus service.