Fifty kilometres of fabulous sandstone formations, dams and flower-covered passes lead you deep into the Cederberg Mountains and eventually to Oudrif, the perfect hideaway-getaway on the banks of the clear, clean, cool Doring River. I was met by my hosts Bill and Jeanine, who provided me with iced tea, before escorting me to my environmentally-friendly lodge where walls and roofs are straw bales and power is solar and views spectacular. Bill and Jeanine met whilst Jeanine was working as a goatherd (absolutely true) and their shared passion for the environment is palpable. Together they’re a veritable encyclopaedia of life in the wild from eco building to bird rescues. Their half-wild pet cat Barry has sadly passed away, but he has left a legacy that started community projects to save the African wild cat species that Bill and Jeanine are hands-on involved in. My room was light-filled, with sofas to snooze on, but it was a hot day, so I donned my trunks and ran to the river for a dip. The boma is the meeting point, library and supper room and I was quickly introduced to the other guests. Oudrif holds ten at full capacity, with a rare atmosphere whereby guests know they are sharing a unique experience; evenings around the communal table can be very entertaining. After a laughter-filled evening, some wonderful, fresh and refreshing - in such a meat-dominated country - vegetarian cooking and too much home-made bread, I headed off to bed. Well, in fact… eschewing the comforts of a lovely king-size double bed, I actually decided to sleep outside under an amazing starlit sky. This is a truly special spot. Guided excursions also included.