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When you think of a speakeasy, South African activist Steve Biko isn’t necessarily the first thing that comes to mind is he? For owner Simbi Nkula, owner of Nkula, there is a kind of symbiosis.
The prohibition gave birth to the speakeasy; an intimate space shrouded in secrecy whereby the very fact that you were consuming alcohol meant you were being politically defiant. Steve Biko’s ideologies of Black Consciousness were just that, he too had to organise gatherings in secret to avoid the apartheid police.
Nkula is a radical concept at first glance but when you take a closer look, it’s clear that more spaces like it should exist.
Consider the location – Long Street is historically significant. It has played a crucial role in the social and cultural landscape of Cape Town. In recent years, however, it’s fallen from grace and what once was a bohemian strip has become unsavoury. Nkula is reclaiming the space.
Consider the offering – The speakeasy champions black-owned wines. An industry that has been dominated by generations of white families is being disrupted by a new wave of accomplished professionals of colour. Nkula is not only giving these winemakers a home but is demonstrating how versatile wine can be through serving wine cocktails. Very few establishments in Cape Town are willing to only serve cocktails like this.
Consider the atmosphere – Wine is still considered high-brow and inaccessible to many. During tastings, sommeliers might tell you what you should be experiencing, which can be intimidating. From the moment you walk into Nkula and see the bartenders in their overalls and shelby hats, you feel at ease. The sage burning above the sound system, the customer graffiti on the wall in the courtyard, the feminine products in the bathrooms are all thoughtful additions to encourage customers to make the space their own.
Sustainability: All wine is sourced from grapes grown in the Western Cape. Some winemakers are Africans in diaspora, but the wines have been made and bottled locally. The furniture in Nkula was all handmade by Simbi.
Ethicality: Nkula is a 100% black-owned speakeasy that only employs people of colour. All the wine available at the bar is owned (completely or partly) by person(s) of colour.
Mobility: While the bar is on street level, there is a slight obstruction when entering the speakeasy – through the doorman is always available to help those needing assistance..