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GREENWOOD GUIDES

CAPE winelands

Route 2

Go over the top at the spectacular passes of Bainskloof, Helshoogte, Franschhoek, and Kogmanskloof, and gawk at the lush gardens of Stellenbosch University, Schoonzicht, Babylonstoren, Asttack, and Soekershof. You can bring on the biodynamic with an organic wine and food tour hosted by Coffeebeans Routes, drift down the Breede River with a glass of wine in hand at Viljoensdrift, and then meat and eat at the legendary Mr. Chippa’s in Paarl. Cycle and sip your way through the scenery with Bikes n Wines or the Dwars River Valley Cycle Tour, savour world-class sculpture at Dylan Lewis, Delaire Graaff, and beyond with Art Trails, and explore the cool interiors of spectacular Cape Dutch heritage buildings alongside Five Star Guides. Put the Wow! back into wine during an exclusive cellar tour at independent, world-class producers, float below pristine waterfalls at Paarl Mountain Reserve, Mont Rochelle, Steenbraskloof, and Crystal Pools with The Fynbos Guy, fly along thrilling single-track trails at Dirtopia and Boschendal with iRide, and finally, meet the Karretjiemense at the Eseltjiesrus Donkey Sanctuary.

Wellington & Paarl – Day 1

In the western foothills of the Hawequa Mountains lies a little-explored route of winding mountain passes, expansive country estates, earthy farms bursting with produce and pretty country lanes connecting heritage towns and villages together.

Cape Town hike with mountain view
Why back wine made by an astrophile? Under Johnathan Grieve, Paarl’s Avondale Estate follows a biodynamic approach, prioritizing lunar cycles and soil health. This ecological philosophy extends from vineyard walks and a signature duck parade to seasonal dining, ensuring everything works in quiet harmony with the land.

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Dominating Paarl from on high, a massive granite outcrop offers a scenic drive with plenty of walking opportunities to explore fynbos-laden hillsides. As one of the winelands’ best-kept local secrets, the area features a curated wildflower garden, bass fishing, scenic mountain biking trails, and lush lakeside strolls for visitors to enjoy.

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Offering a range of creative outpouring, Spice Route is a destination with routes within it: part ethical shopping mall, part artisanal workspace. Trading stores, food, glass blowing, and exercise spaces combine beautifully into a place you can easily spend a day browsing, grazing, and lazing. We particularly like De Villiers Chocolate and Red Hot Glass.

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The best way to see this historic 20km former wagon route is by bicycle. Expect almost no traffic and a slow 7km climb through forest, topping out with views of the Paarl and Breede River valleys. The descent features rock pools and waterfalls of the Witte Rivier. We recommend a guided ride from www.irideafrica.com.

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Fyn
Ask any South African what unifies the country, and they will say "braai." Far more than a simple barbecue, a braai is an essential part of national culture. At Mr. Chippa’s, a popular township shisanyama (public braai) founded in 1996, locals and visitors experience South Africa as most tourists never do.

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Named after its labyrinthine setting of valleys, rivers, and meadows, Doolhof entreats you to a wine tasting before handing over a picnic basket. You are invited to stroll their 10km river walk, admiring the estate’s restored biodiversity, spotting buck, porcupine, and baboon while noshing on the contents of said basket.

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Set privately between Paarl and Wellington, Tempel is Tom and Tatjana’s organic passion project. Featuring superb blended wines, striking contemporary art, and boutique rooms, the estate offers spectacular Drakenstein mountain views, an infinity pool, and eco-friendly touches.

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Below DuToitskloof Pass near Paarl, Liesbeth, Kallie, and Lidia run a beautiful, deeply-loved farm stay. Six detached, comfortable houses are nestled in a shady, winding garden featuring a dam and pool. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, and Liesbeth's warm hospitality keeps global and local guests returning year after year.

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Located near Wellington, Bartholomeus Klip is a refined, historic farmhouse retreat offering meticulously curated rooms and outstanding attention to detail. Set beside the Waterval mountains, the working farm features an enormous pool, a scenic dam, and self-catering villas, promising an elegant step back in time.

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Cape Town hike with mountain view

Worcester & Robertson – Day 2

This beautiful valley which plays host to the upper reaches of the Breede River connects the mountain town of Ceres to the winelands town of Swellendam.  This is the realm of ‘big country’: lonely open roads, large sweeping farms and all framed by high and rugged mountains on three sides of the valley.  A place to breathe out in splendid silence and isolation. The road today is the little-known R60 road that connects Cape Town to the more famous Route 62. 

Cape Town hike with mountain view
Based on a family farm, Reilheim offers an off-the-wall range of striking, excellently priced ceramic art made from African clay. Ranging from functional to tongue-in-cheek and ultra-chic, these products journey from this unassuming rural location to grace Reilheim’s showrooms in the chicest parts of Cape Town and Joburg.

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This grand 1940s Worcester house, once home to artist Hugo Naude, is now an arts and culture centre nurturing youthful creativity. Brimming with infectious delight, it trains and promotes talent for South Africa’s thriving creative industries. Visitors can explore the on-site art shop or check socials for special exhibitions.

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Willow Creek completes nature’s circle, leaving nothing to waste in producing its internationally renowned olive oil. First planted 20 years ago, the groves yield 13 splendid oils to sample in their purpose-built tasting room. Don’t miss their excellent café and the Thai Olive Pesto during your visit.

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Owning a wine estate on the beautiful Breede River, brothers Fred and Manie offer the perfect pairing: riverbank picnics and boat wine tastings. After stocking your picnic hamper at their deli, lazily drift along the river sipping excellent Pinotage or Villion MCC, perhaps chancing upon a fish eagle.

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The humble donkey remains central to many South African lives, particularly the San-descended Karritjiemense. At Eseltjesrus, you will see these wonderful animals in a new light, meeting permanent residents and enjoying a small-scale farm complete with a coffee shop overlooking the dam.

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This informal bistro on a large family-owned wine estate offers fresh wood-oven pizzas, over-the-top salads, and a relaxed ambiance, with afternoon teas by arrangement. Afterwards, explore the Fish Eagle Trail to stroll along the riverfront accompanied by the calls of the eponymous bird hunting for fish.

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With no chef’s diplomas or recipe books, family-owned Nerina’s Farm serves traditional South African plaaskos—and that’s how they keep it! Boarding their river barge for a seasonal lunch or dinner is a delight, thanks to the excellent companionship of the captains and the lovely river scenery you drift through.

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At historic Eensgevonden, Martin welcomes guests to a dog-friendly working farm with three comfortable cottages, vineyards, and mountain paths. Enjoy a sand-bottomed rock pool, fynbos reserves, and a sustainable, community-minded approach to hospitality in the Breedekloof.

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Set along a shaded Robertson street, GUBAS DE HOEK is an eclectic, serene guesthouse run by Gunter and Balbina. It features diverse, wheelchair-friendly rooms, self-catering options, and an expansive garden with a pool, parkour trail, and sustainable, solar-powered hospitality.

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In the early noughties, Karl and Sandra bought this splendid vintage farm, pouring love into it from day one. Offering a rustic, authentic atmosphere with diverse cottages, hiking trails, and a 24-seater restaurant, the farm beautifully combines mountain-spring-powered winemaking with superb, deeply ethical staff benefits.

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Cape Town hike with mountain view

Mcgregor & Montagu – Day 3

The towns of Montagu, McGregor and Greyton form and almost perfectly straight line across the Breede River, and are connected by their artistic, leftfield and untouched nature.  With histories stretching back over 300 years, these three towns didn’t develop at the pace of their more famous neighbours and have therefore remained blissfully small-scale.  Now populated by emigres from Cape Town and Joburg looking for a slower pace of life in which to create, the vibe is hippy chic and down to earth.

Cape Town hike with mountain view
Oozing through the fruit farms of the Klein Karoo, you feel the urge to drift slowly down the Breede: so why not do it in style by letting Kelvin Phillips arrange a boat day for you—indulging in water-based birdwatching, bass fishing, or just watching the world slide lazily past?

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Blessed with a spectacular gorge and mountain passes, Montagu offers some of South Africa's best rock climbing, alongside plenty of activities for non-climbers too. We highly suggest taking a trip with www.bluemountainadventures.co.za to fully experience this truly magical wilderness for yourself during your visit.

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If you woke up wondering why there isn’t a Priscilla Queen of the Desert experience in South Africa, wonder no more. American Dream Cars offers a thrilling tour of Montagu in two meticulously maintained Cadillacs, combining tactile, vintage luxury with the vast, rugged vistas of the Klein Karoo.

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Taking up almost a quarter of the entire footprint of Montagu town, this garden has a strong conservation focus for Karoo flowers – the stream that runs through it is criss-crossed by a circular walking trail and there’s a beautiful tea garden here too. We suggest visiting early morning or late afternoon in the summer months as it gets very hot.

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Set in quiet McGregor, Temenos Retreat—Greek for a sacred, protected space—is intentionally designed around stillness and holistic wellbeing. Established in 1997, this garden sanctuary invites guests to slow down with mindfulness practices, movement, energy work, reflective sessions, and creative therapies tailored to encourage deep rest and recalibration.

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Cape Town hike with mountain view
Farmstalls or padstals are a South African institution: ranging from a single table selling one product (e.g. fresh pineapples) right up to wedding-venue sized establishments, a stop at a padstal is as compulsory as padkos (road snacks). Situated in the beautiful Cogmanskloof, you’ll get a view over the Keisie River and such delights as peri-peri chicken livers and Dutch apple tart.

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Luckily you don’t have to stay at Jan Harmsgat to enjoy this splendid fine dining experience. 90% of what you eat here is grown on the farm itself, including the pomegranates and pecans which go into their signature pecan pie (which if unmissable). Of course, the wine is from the estate too and the ethics of the place are unparalleled in the valley.

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Housed in a white-washed, reed-ceilinged building situated within the wonderful, spirit-reviving gardens of Temenos, a retreat in McGregor, Trebaldi’s offers delicious, farm-to-fork style food alongside full vegan and vegetarian menus. You will certainly love the unique ambiance of the multiple convening spaces provided throughout this truly spirit-reviving and peaceful venue.

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Arriving at Tanagra, Robert welcomed us to the beautifully converted Garden Cottage. Beside their grappa distillery and winery, Robert and Anette offer refined self-catering cottages and the secluded, off-grid Faraway house. Guests can enjoy marked hiking trails, total tranquility, and proximity to quaint McGregor.

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Met by effervescent owner Wanda, Olive Stone Farm is a unique olive-specialising sanctuary. Three private heritage cottages feature exposed timbers, flagstone floors, plunge pools, and full house amenities. Guests will love the solar-powered sustainability, scenic Montagu surroundings, and delightful free-roaming farm animals.

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Offering ten creatively furnished rooms on a 680-hectare farm, Jan Harmsgat blends rich 300-year history with genuine, heartfelt hospitality. Guests enjoy roaming wildlife, a lawn-encircled pool, and an acclaimed estate-to-table restaurant, all backed by impressive, independent Fair Trade Tourism accreditation for sustainability.

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Cape Town hike with mountain view

Franschhoek – Day 4

Franschhoek, the tiny village that is the self-proclaimed capital of the Cape Winelands, is so packed full of things to see and do, meaning you’d need years to do them all (and that’s why many visitors come back year after year): the main attraction is the fact that this is gourmet capital of South Africa and so one can literally walk/stagger up and down the main street eating, drinking and then eating some more from dawn to dusk. On top of this, Franschhoek is unique among South African wine towns to have wine estates that are right in the middle of town, meaning that you can walk to tastings from your front door.

Cape Town hike with mountain view
Take an alternative route through this fertile valley, sampling dishes and wines produced by local chefs and farmers. Meet locals while exploring home kitchens, corner cafes, and restaurants accompanied by regional stories, legends, and songs—from Pniel gatsbys to Kylemore roosterbroodjes and Lanquedoc tomatiebredie.

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What a combination: wine tasting on horseback! Join them for a 2.5 Hour or 4.5 Hour Wine Tasting Ride on Arabian horses and experience the magnificent scenery of the Franschhoek Mountains and vineyards. Not keen for a Wine Tasting Ride, they do offer shorter Scenic Rides as well.

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Offering easy access to the UNESCO-listed Cape Winelands Reserve, Mont Rochelle boasts wildflowers, soaring Franschhoek valley views, and diverse wildlife. Enjoy well-marked circular trails or challenging routes through this magnificent landscape. Remember to buy your entrance ticket online before arriving.

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A collection of grand 17th-century buildings frames a cool, tree-filled courtyard featuring a tasting room, wine shop, deli, coffee shop, and refined dining at The Retreat Restaurant. This convivial space invites guests to stay all day, exploring extensive nearby mountain biking and walking trails.

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In 2007, Solms-Delta pioneered worker ownership while preserving the farm’s rich archaeological history. Today, under Tommy Hall and family, this premium wine estate continues building on that foundation, ensuring original inhabitants benefit directly from every aspect of the enterprise—and the wines are exceptional too.

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Aunty Sienna Charles is a powerhouse. Having founded a community kitchen in Kylemore, she introduces visitors to traditional Winelands cuisine—from piping hot roosterbrood and bredie to malva pudding. A warm storyteller and entrepreneur, Sienna embodies the region’s rich culinary heritage.

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ELEVEN $$$
In a town known for polished wine estates, Eleven Restaurant offers accessible yet crafted small plates by chef-proprietor Ryan Shell. Featuring seasonal, global-inspired dishes made to share, it delivers a lively atmosphere, informed service, and an exceptional local wine list.

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REUBENS $$$
Founded by beloved celebrity chef Reuben Riffel, Reuben’s seamlessly blends chic, unpretentious sophistication with strong philanthropic roots. Rising from humble beginnings as a village barman turned kitchen helper, Riffel maintains an uncompromising focus on quality, equality, and exceptional culinary experiences.

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Jo Sinfield has created a series of artistic, signature self-catering villas—The Explorer’s Club, Map Room, and Library—in Franschhoek. Blending exquisite textures and functional artwork with massive living spaces, private pools, and flexible per-person pricing, they offer a sophisticated alternative to guesthouses.

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Behind an unassuming exterior, award-winning Akademie Street Boutique Hotel offers lavish country-cottage charm and exquiite artwork. Nine intimate suites, solar sustainability, a main pool, and an exceptional breakfast make this Franschhoek’s premier adults-only sanctuary.

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Cape Town hike with mountain view

Stellenbosch & Somerset West – Day 5

Stellenbosch is the largest of all the Cape Winelands towns and has far outgrown its pretty historic centre.   Here is where the wine industry really has its base, where wines are bought and sold and packaged.  Always busy and bustling particularly with the university’s students during term time, you’ll love the contrast between the youthful pace of Stellies versus the rest of the Winelands.

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If you prefer organic food, why not apply the same standard to wine? Inspired by sustainability leaders like Avondale and Spier, this tour explores lesser-known estates and renowned garagiste winemakers putting planet and people first to craft excellent wines.

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While any visitor can explore Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, and Paarl, expert guide and former WINE magazine editor Fiona McDonald provides an intimate insider’s perspective. Tailoring custom tours for novice drinkers and serious connoisseurs alike, her three decades of industry contacts ensure unique access to world-class producers and sustainable, regenerative wineries.

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Defying categorization, this Franschhoek land began as hands-on landscape architecture transformed by Dylan Lewis. It expanded into an outdoor sculpture exhibition, an endangered plant nursery, and a studio gallery. Inspired by big cats and humans, Lewis’s sculptures capture movement with startling originality.

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Originally a narrow forest road, the Helshoogte Pass was rebuilt in 2010. It offers a rewarding climb by car, motorbike, or bicycle past premier estates like Delaire Graff and Tokara, featuring sensational views over Jonkershoek and Simonsberg. Contact Cape Cycle Tours for bike hire or guided tours.

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Inventive and understated, Waterford Estate produces superb wines while preserving half its land for natural biodiversity. Guests can explore this unique landscape through the Porcupine Trail Wine Walk or the Wine Drive Safari, enjoying guided vineyard tastings while learning about the estate’s winemaking philosophy.

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Melfort is a labor of love, legacy, and healing. Founded by chef Tazmin after a life-altering autoimmune illness, the restaurant honors her family’s agricultural roots with conscious, farm-to-table cuisine. Each dish features vibrant, locally foraged ingredients, offering a nourishing, soul-filled dining experience that proves food can truly heal.

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Housed in a restored Stellenbosch heritage building, De Warenmarkt naturally blends old and new to serve as a casual workspace, grocery, and dining hub. Local residents, tourists, and wine farmers gather at communal tables for informal wine, pizza, and oysters, creating an accessible, unhurried space deeply woven into town life.

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Cavalli Estate is a multidisciplinary destination where wine, architecture, indigenous landscaping, equestrian culture, and contemporary art coexist seamlessly. Home to South Africa’s first Green Star-rated restaurant, the sustainable estate avoids performative excess, remaining most compelling when experienced slowly.

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Originally a wine farm, family-run Rozendal in Stellenbosch evolved into a renowned vinegar producer. Tucked against Jonkershoek’s slopes, it offers understated en-suite rooms, a secluded cottage, organic farm breakfasts, and a rustic atmosphere rooted in authentic, biodynamic farm life.

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Housed in a restored 1907 Victorian villa, Bonne Esperance is a female-managed Stellenbosch guesthouse. Blending historic charm with modern comfort, it offers 16 en-suite rooms, semi-self-catering studios, sustainable practices, and attentive, guest-first service near the heart of town.

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Located on an elegant Stellenbosch street, Oude Werf merges 18th-century heritage with modern design. Featuring diverse rooms set around a courtyard pool, eco-friendly practices, and exceptional walkability to local galleries and dining, it offers an ideal town-centre stay.

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Cape Town & Peninsula

Download the Route 2 Guide as a PDF to keep the full itinerary, maps, and travel tips with you while exploring. Perfect for offline access when you’re on the road or discovering hidden spots.